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How to Modify the "Cheapy" Stocks Courtesy of Lafayettegregory, Toad442, and galahad.
Tools used: Pencil Tape measure Dremel (high speed rotary tool) Optional:
Dremel attachments used:
From left to right; 1/8” deburring bit, Small deburring bit, Small spherical deburring bit, Small sanding drum w/120 or 80 grit paper.
First off, fit the cross bolt. This needs to be completed first. All measurements are taken off of the cross bolt. The cross bolt holes will need to have some material taken out to fit the bolt in. Use the Dremel and the deburring bits for this.
The cross bolt hole is drilled smaller than the bolt, the hole will need to be enlarged a bit.
Expect some wood “flashing” on the inside. The drum sander attachment cuts through it like butter. ***Note***…the vertical pins on the cross bolt. There are provisions cut into the stock to fit these pins. The cross bolt will only go in two ways. The pins keep the bolt vertical. The bolt must be aligned with the flat side of the bolt upwards.
The provisions in the stock that hold the pins on the bolt will need to be deepened. Use the small spherical bit for this. Do not be afraid to take material out of these pin dimples. On my pinned Chinese stock the upper dimple is actually cut all the way through to the inside of the stock. Take enough material out to get the cross bolt to sit snugly and centered in the stock. Do not tighten the cross bolt “nut plate” in attempts to pull the bolt through any wood flashing. These nut plates will strip themselves easily. Do all your fitting with the Dremel and use the nut plate just to fasten the bolt in the stock.
Next, it’s time to take a measurement for the trimming of the front of the stock.
Take your measurement off of an existing stock. If you want to mount one of the cheapy stocks to a Chinese, take the measurements off of a Chinese stock, Yugo measurements off a Yugo stock-and so on with other countries of manufacture. Take the measurements from the back of the bolt to the front of the stock. This measurement is the most important measurement.
Here you’ll see that the cross bolt bumps right up to the front of the receiver. You’ll need to reproduce this with the stock adjustments.
Back to the measuring part…. Compare the measurement off of the original stock to the length of the cheapy stock. You will see that the cheapy stock will need to be shortened a little. The one I used for the making of this “how to” needed to be shortened just under 1/2".
For the stock that I modded, I had to “indent”
the front of the stock. The section marked in green needed to be cut back, to start the ‘indentation”.
For this cut, I use the 1/8” deburring bit to indent the stock back. After you make this indent, you will need to make a second cut to take off the excess length of the stock.
Marked here in olive, the indenting leaves excess wood that will need to be removed. This particular cut takes the excess length out of the stock. The 1/8” deburring bit can also be used for this cut. A Scroll saw or a Coping saw may be used too.
Indented cheapy stock on left, Yugo factory stock on right…
After you make these cuts you’ll end up with a stock shortened to the length you need. After you make the cuts, take the drum sander attachment up to the wood to smooth everything out and make it “purdy”. When you’re done with this part, try a test fit of the barreled receiver in the stock. This will give you an idea of where to take material out next.
With a little patience you’ll end up with a nice shortened front end.
Approximately ½” material taken off. Cross bolt installed
For the second measurement, you are going to measure from the cross bolt backwards.
You’re going to end up with a measurement somewhere around 9” on the factory stock. Measure the cheapy stock in the same way. If it’s under length, go at it with the 1/8” deburring bit a little at a time. If it’s over, try to fit the barreled receiver. The one I did measured about 3/32” over length and I still had to take material out. There is plenty of wood flashing and cutting inconsistencies inside the stock. You’ll probably have to take some material out somewhere. Don’t get too wild with this step. Not that much material need to be taken out. Test fit the barreled receiver to the cheapy stock before you move on.
A little bit of material is going to need to be removed from the areas marked in green to allow the end of the receiver to drop in. Don’t get too wild with this step. Not that much material need to be taken out. The 1/8” deburring bit can be used for this. The sanding drum will work also. At this point, you will need to take a few passes with the sanding drum over the back-top-right side of the stock to make room for the receiver cover latch. This area is marked in olive.
Another view of the area that needs to be taken down to allow room for the receiver cover latch. This area is marked in olive. Test fit the barreled receiver to the cheapy stock before you move on. Now the heavy removal part….The material around the cross bolt will need to be taken out to fit the front of the receiver and the base of the barrel. The sanding drum will cut through this material like it was butter.
To fit a pinned Chi, quite a bit of material needs to be taken out in the area marked in green and olive. For all other SKS with a threaded barrel, less material will need to be taken out. Here’s the why…
Top-Pinned Chinese, Lower-Threaded in barrel (all other SKSs)
Note in the above picture, that the pinned Chinese has a considerably fatter front end on the receiver, more material will need to be taken out of the cheapy stock to fit this area. The threaded barreled SKS is thinner in the front of the receiver and the barrel has a tapered “bell” shaped section that will require less material to be taken out to fit. Take a little bit of material out at a time until the barreled receiver drops in.
A comparison of some stocks…
Left to Right…Factory pinned Chinese, Factory Yugo, Modded Cheapy(fitment to pinned Chinese), Unmodded Cheapy, and Unmodded Cheapy.
In the above picture, you can see a difference between the factory pinned Chi stock and the threaded barreled Yugo stock. Notice around the area of the cross bolt….more material is taken out of the stock to fit the fatter receiver. Also notice, that more material was taken out of the pinned Chi stock just forward of the cross bolt in order to fit the larger receiver end.
At this point, you should have a stock ready to hold the barreled receiver comfortably.
Minor sanding may be needed to let the magazine slide in. The cheapy stock I modded in the above picture required no sanding to fit the magazine. Minor sanding may be needed to remove flashing to allow the trigger group to drop in. The cheapy stock I modded in the above picture required minor sanding, but no real material removal to fit the trigger group. The fitment of the trigger group on this particular stock was tight enough that I didn’t need to install an “anti-rattle” spring in the stock, to keep the trigger group from rattling. A drop in and a “snap” was all that it took to secure the trigger group.
It took me a little over an hour to mod this cheapy stock to fit a pinned Chinese SKS. (that’s with the picture taking along the way). After I got the “hang-of-it” I was able to mod one with the previous mentioned tools in about 45 minutes. I was able to get a mod down to 30 minutes buy using an electric Scroll Saw for the “stock shortening” part of the mod. The Scroll Saw or a Coping Saw are faster, but with a blade, the ability for error increases.
GET TO WORK FELLAS!
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